Learn Aari work or maggam work

Aari work is a type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design with a long needle which has a hook in the end. The needle is named as Aari, from which the embroidery work derives its name as Aari work. This work consists of beads, stones, golden and silver threads which gives a royal richness to the design. Aari work is known for its elegant thread work that enhances the gravity of hand embroidery. Sliding from the families of the ruling kings and the queens, today, the craft can be seen on any teenager’s blouse or top, with the traditional gear of various states, like sarees, Gagra choli of a bride or on festive attire.

Tools

The needle used for aari work comes in only one size and they are available in local market. Steel Crochet Hooks also can be used in this work available in various sizes in the market.

Other tools

Materials

• Various types and colours of beads, kundans, stones, and pearls are used to give rich look to the embroidery designs.
• Stone chain and pearl chain is used to give dazzling effect to the design.
• Colourful threads are used according to the design and patterns.
• Fabric gum is used to fix the stones on fabric.
• Zari, silver or gold thread is used to stitch the design pattern.
• Different shades of embroidery thread are used to embroider the design.
• Various sizes & shades of Zardosi (A spring type of metal thread) is used to give the design bright look.

Making Process

Initially cloth is stretched and tied to a frame to remove loose folds. Usually wood cot or iron cot used to stretch the cloth. With the help of a lead pencil or chalk powder the design is traced on the fabric. After tracing matching color threads or golden thread is embroidered along the traced design. Aari needle is pushed through the cloth and thread from the reverse side is hooked in the aari needle and pulled out from the upper side. Needle is again inserted in the cloth a little distance away from the previous pierce and pulls the thread out locking the previous stitch. This process is continued till the pattern is formed on the cloth. Designs are embellished with zari and embroidered with matching beads and stones which gives the fabric rich look.